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Bandsaw Blades: Length, Width, TPI & More

Welcome to Solent Tools, we supply bandsaw blades tailored to your needs. Below we explain the differences between the ranges of width & TPI (Teeth Per Inch) available as well as correctly measuring the length of your blade. Whether your current blade needs replacement or you’re aiming to enhance the finishing quality, understanding the right blade for your saw and the material you are cutting is crucial.

Bandsaw Blade Selection

At Solent Tools, we simplify your blade selection process. We categorize blades by machine model numbers, eliminating the hassle of determining blade length and tension compatibility. While a variety of blades remains available for your model, understanding different blade widths and TPIs (Teeth Per Inch) is essential.

We stock blades designed for smaller bench-top DIY and professional bandsaws, primarily for wood and non-ferrous metal cutting. Custom-length blades can also be ordered with a lead time of approximately one week.

Length

If your machine model number isn’t listed, identifying the blade length becomes paramount. Some saws display the blade length on the information plate; otherwise, you can measure in the following ways:

Our shorter stock blades (up to 1699mm) are crafted from Thin Gauge Flexback Carbon. Known for its precision and durability, design to flex around smaller wheels and minimizing premature blade breakage. Longer stock blades (1700mm-2500mm) are made from Standard Gauge Flexback Carbon, offering enhanced strength for larger machines with greater wheel diameters.

Width

Blade width determines flexibility and strength. A simple rule is the narrower the blade, the more flexible it is; wider blades offer greater strength. Select the width based on your cutting needs:

We stock these widths as standard. Additional widths can be ordered with a lead time of around one week. Some saws specify minimum and maximum blade widths, this is crucial for blade tension and wheel width so should always be adhered to.

TPI (Teeth Per Inch)

The TPI impacts finish quality. Fewer TPI result in a rougher finish, while more TPI will give a finer finish. Here are the TPI’s we stock:

We can order different TPIs on request, with a lead time of around one week.

Finer blades are better suited to plastic and metal cutting. The number of teeth on a bandsaw blade will also determine the feed rate. The higher the TPI, the slower the feed rate.

You should be aiming to have at least 3 teeth in the material that you are cutting. So, if you need to cut very thin material (e.g., under 6mm), it will be better to use a higher TPI (14 TPI) blade; otherwise, the material can bounce.

Cutting Material

The blades we stock are all for wood cutting bandsaws (which are capable of cutting plastic and thin non-ferrous metals such as Aluminium & Brass – always check your manual before cutting), these bandsaws run in a range of between 2500 – 3200 FPM (Feet Per Minute).

If you are wanting to cut Steel, Stainless Steel and other Ferrous metals you will need a specific metal cutting bandsaw that runs a lot slower in the range of 40-400 FPM (Feet Per Minute). Never attempt to cut steel on a metal cutting bandsaw, it will ruin the blade, probably the saw and above all else the user will be at a high risk of serious injury.

Should bandsaw guide bearings touch blade?

When the blade is under no load the guide blocks / bearings and thrust bearings should not be touching the blades, they should be as close as possible without making direct contact. When a gentle pressure is applied contact should be made and the bearings should spin.

Incorrect pressure of the bearings or the blocks is the number one reason for blades breaking.

How do you adjust the blade guides on a Bandsaw?

  1. Before you start please make sure your machine is unplugged.
  2. You will need to release both bearings away from the blade. One of these will be above the table and the other below it.
  3. Check that both bearings spin freely and ensure that there are no grooves in them. If one is grooved, remove and turn around to use the opposite side. A spray of oil onto the bearing is always a good idea at this point.
  4. Then you can release the guide blocks back from the blade, and remember there are two above and two below the table.
  5. Let out the tension of the old blade by loosening the top adjusting screw. In the likely circumstance that your old blade has broken, you will still carry out sections 1 to 4.
  6. Fit the new blade onto the wheels.
  7. As you start to tension it, turn the drive wheel by hand and adjust the top wheel in and out with the rear adjuster to keep the blade centralized on the wheels.
  8. Once you have achieved tension and can turn the blade around a few times with the blade remaining centralized on the wheels, you are almost done.
  9. Plug in and run the saw for a few seconds. After this you will need to turn it off and unplug it again.
  10. Providing the blade has stayed centralized, you can move on to the next stage. But if it has moved to one side or the other of the drive wheels, you will need to repeat stages 6 to 9.
  11. Bring the bearings up to the blade, but do not push the blade away. The bearings need to be as close to the blade as they can without making direct contact.
  12. Then, bring the blocks back to the blade, and again, do not move the blade. The guide blocks need to simply be as close to the blade as they can without making direct contact.
  13. Everything is now set up and you will need to do a few test cuts.
  14. If you need to re-tension the blade, always check that the blade is still centralized afterwards. If the blade has started to move, a slight adjustment of the rear in and out adjuster is okay, but check that the blade hasn’t started to push hard against either the bearings or the blocks. If it has, then adjust immediately.

If you are still unsure of which blade you need, have any questions or would like to order a bespoke blade please get in contact with us by email sales@solenttools.co.uk or by phone 02380578057.

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